9.22.2009

The reason why I have made this blog: a climber with a special state of mind...

Chris Sharma is one of the most famous climber of the world. Now, his name is known from the East to the West by anybody who likes to practise rock climbing but he has kept his simple way of life. That's why he is one of my favourite climbers.





Chris was born in 1981 and started to climb at the age of twelve.
He became quickly a high level climber and was the second best one in the world when he was only 15 years old. (according to his results in the world climbing cup).

Chris climbed in 2001 "Realization", which was his best project since for a long time. This performance is placed at the top level of this sport.




He is now sponsored by a famous material's brand in the climbing world (PRANA); therefore, I think he's now quite rich.

Although he is now well known, he still lives a simple life, enjoying trips from one place to another and meeting people on his road...!

I'm fond of this climber because of his performances of course but also because of his state of mind!

Prana: the brand that Chris has carried to the very top!

When Chris left his first sponsor (Verve), Prana took him on.

Thanks to Chris' performances and to the fact he is really popular, Prana improved its sales and it is now the most famous clothes brand for climbers.

Fashion, Fashion, Fashion!!!

When I go rock climbing, I always see people wearing Prana's or Petlz's products, as if you have to wear these type of clothes when you are a climber!
To my mind, there is a big paradox:
On the one hand, people who climb often say they love the nature and dislike our consumption society...
On the other hand, the same people buy high cost products because of their need for identification to the climber's world!

I invite you to react about this subject because I am a quite good climber and I have never bought Prana's and Petzl's products even if I would like to be like Chris Sharma!

Realization, and the dream becomes reality...

Chris Sharma's best friend, Dave Graham (another famous climber) has climbed this famous route too, a few days after Chris.
Those two climbers have different styles but are both able to reach the top of very difficult routes .

Therefore, according to the performances, is it possible to say that one of them is better than the other without including their state of mind and their way of life?

His Best deep Water Soloing

This special type of climbing, just above the water, cordless, is called "deep water soloing".

I love climbing like this in "Ardeche", going to the top of the route above the river.
It is a real pleasure to fall in the water when you miss a move.

What is incredible in this video is the distance between the last two handholds. I wouldn't be able to do this!

2008: The best route Chris has ever realized: JUMBO LOVE

Chris Sharma climbed the most difficult route of the world (Jumbo Love) in 2008 (last year) ; but what is surprising for me is that he didn't ask to be filmed as he has simply done it for himself.

According to me, he has been filmed and he is waiting the good moment to sell his images to Prana or Petzl for a promotional campaign! What do you think about it?


Chris sharma: bouldering!

Chris is also specialized in bouldering. It means that he is very strong when he has to climb very small routes composed of very difficult moves and awful holds. When you climb these routes you don't need any rope because they aren't high and if you miss a move, you tumble on a mattress.

To boulder, you have to be very strong because each move is exhausting!


Some people say that you are either good at bouldering or good at lead- climbing! According to climbers, you can't be strong in both kind of climbing!

However, Chris Sharma has proved that this is false, becoming a champion of bouldering and lead climbing!

So, what do you think about it? Is Chris an alien or is he just a special human?

Chris, the mistake!!

Chris Sharma has already won a "World Cup of Sport Climbing" but he was then stripped of his World Cup title because traces of marijuana were found in a urine sample.
However, this drug is not a dopping drug as it does not improve performance. Therefore, to my mind, I still think that Chris is the best sport climber in the world because finally, he had won this world cup without cheating.

Despite the fact I am a great fan, I think he represents a bad example for young climbers who get identity through him and I think it is part of the climber's state of mind to take marijuana and "be cool".
I also think that on the one hand, he is a example for his tenacity and his simple way of life but on the other hand, I disapprove the fact that he makes marijuana's consumption a vogue in the climber's world.


How I imagine a week in Chris sharma's body


On Monday morning, the first thing to do would be to receive new airplane tickets from Petzl to go to India or France to realize a new project, a new route, to make images and films for the famous brand for a promotional campaign.

After having chosen everything you want without paying anything at Prana's and Petzl's factories, it's time to leave Florida by the air!

On Tuesday, you have nothing to do except enjoying the local culture.

It's now Wednesday morning : after a nice night in the nature, it's the moment to discover the route, the holds, to find the best moves and to do the best you can!

From Wednesday to Friday, your all time is aimed at passing the route. An important detail that needs to be explained is that each evening you go into local pubs and bars to have free time with other climbers and local girls who are happy to spend each night with you... In case of failure, this week would have to be considered as a necessary training to succeed and you would have to come again.

On Saturday morning, in Florida, you spend time with friends, speaking about each one aventures. On Sunday, you can sleep or having free time, as you want....

A week like anybody who climbs would like to live!

An eternal figure of rock climbing

To my mind, Chris Sharma is now a legend of rock climbing because of his great talent hand his state of mind.

He won a lot of climbing competitions and realized most of hard free climbing's ways in the wolrd; therefore, he will remains in memories.

The aim of climbing is to reach the top, going past difficulties. Chris Sharma has already climbed the hardest routes; so, what can he do now? What is next?

Maybe he will climb cordless, like some climbers that want to be more close to the nature, taking risks and enjoying the feeling that your life depend on your moves...

Maybe he will find new routes, following his work on difficult handholds...

Who knows?

Nobody can know the future about Chris Sharma, but for me, he's still the best but not for a long time: a young French guy, Thomas Anquetil, is following the lead of Chris , realizing 8B+ routes at the age of 14 like Chris did when he was already 15....
I hope that they will meet each other to practise together to push the envelope...

Rock-climbing: a way to avoid stress and to feel good!

I practise this sport since 2006 and today, I can say that rock climbing is a real passion!


I used to practise handball in a good team until 2006 and I stopped it because of the stress brought by training sessions! I've then discovered kayaking and rock climbing, two fabulous outdoor sports! In this kind of sports, nobody tells you what to do or not to do :there is no stress! You've got your own practice and your only aim is to improve your skills and to become better, trying to do better things each time! People you meet through these activities often have a simple way of life and a good state of mind, that's what I like!

The equipment you need to climb!



CLIMBING SHOES


Specifically designed foot wear is usually worn for climbing. To increase the grip of the foot on a climbing wall or rock face due to friction, the shoe is covered with a vulcanized rubber layer.


CARABINERS AND BELAY DEVICES

Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors.
These are mechanical friction brake devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking off of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay devices exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is, abseiling or rappeling.



HARNESS
A harness is used for attaching the rope to a person. Most harnesses used in climbing are worn around the pelvis, although other types are used occasionally.


ROPE

Climbing ropes are typically made of kernmantle construction, consisting of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres. The core provides about 80% of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core and gives the rope desirable handling characteristics.


QUICKDRAWS
Quickdraws (referred to as "draws" by many climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or other traditional protection. They allow the rope to run through with minimal friction. A quickdraw consists of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn loop of webbing.The carabiner meant for clipping into the protection generally has a straight gate, to decrease the possibility of the carabiner accidentally unclipping from the protection. The carabiner into which the rope is clipped often has a bent gate, so that clipping the rope into this carabiner can be done quickly and easily.